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January 20, 2013

There is an excellent article (5 pages) on my Project RC30 and I in the latest issue of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics. Thanks to Ben Wilkins, past editor, and Bertie Simmonds, freelancer and acting editor, for making this possible. Great guys to deal with and my favorite magazine.

Go here to buy the magazine as a fresh back-issue, or go for a walk and check the newstands / bookstores. You can also buy it online for desktop or tablet use.




December 1, 2012

I went on a four day ride through southwest Australia last month on some fantastic roads with a group of great riders. I rode the nasty, bucket of bolts, head shaking R1 with no front brakes. Fortunately I did get a chance to ride my friend's very nice original Aussie spec RC30. The RC30 was so much nicer to ride than the R1. I went just as fast on the Honda after about 10 seconds of riding.


RC30 and R1
(L to R) Sweet and nasty.



October 15, 2012

Thanks to Victoria Harvey at the RC30 Owners Club in the UK for running an article on the build of my project bike in the fall 2012 issue of V-Force magazine. Is this the bike's 15 minutes of fame, or mine? Ya, probably the bikes, my fame awaits me elsewhere.

You can join the RC30 Owner's Club by completing a form on the club website. Click on the logo...






October 9, 2012

The SuperclassiX TTF1 series has drawn to a close for 2012. The final two races were in Oscherleben over the weekend of September  29th/30th. The guys racing RC30's did very well. JAMI Racing had some ongoing trouble with the factory NL0B engine so ran a kitted bike. A Yamaha YZF took race one but Mikal was right behind him and Heinz came in to take third. Mikal won race two for the weekend with Wolfgang Harbusch just a few seconds a behind him in the runner up spot.

Thankfully Heinz Cordes was not seriously injured after his throttle stuck while chasing down Mikal in a fast corner (180 km/hr!) in the second race. Would have been a 1-2-3 for the RC30's.

Daniel says that both him and his bike are going to be lighter next year, and the bike will have more power. He is going to try some FCR's to open up that top-end.

Here are the final results for the 2012 TT-F1 SuperclassiX.....



Congratulations to all the guys who competed and to Mikal for winning championship on Jan's beautiful machine.



Sept 13, 2012

It is that time of year again. I had to winterize my RC30's. It was a good time to synchronize the carbs on my project bike. I have only one thing to say about it.... whoever put the synchronizing screws where they did needs a CAT scan and surgical realignment of their thought processes. Sheesh, what were they thinking. The synch was pretty much dead on, I did it on the bench when I rebuilt them but letting the mercury do it's thing is always a good idea.


 

Aug 29, 2012

After all these years an RC30 still looks so much at home on a racetrack. The RC30's ran at the Most circuit in the Czech Republic recently and due to sheer numbers did very well. The official results have not been posted but Martin Huber took both wins. Following him home in both races were Heinz Cordes and Mikal Henriksen. Unfortunately for Mikal they had to run their backup engine and the NL0B did not get to show its muscle. Wolfgang Harbusch took 4th place in both races followed by Daniel on another RC30 in 5th and 4th places in the 1st and 2nd races. The only interruption was Christian Richinger on his (also very cool) ZXR750 taking 5th in race 1. Congratulations to everybody, including Daniel who beat his own best time by 3 seconds. Lookout Wolfgang Daniel is coming after you at Biketoberfest.

Once again, thank you to Daniel for the inside information, the pictures and the enthusiasm. These guys are typical of why the RC30 so special.

Here are some images Daniel sent me that make me wish I was there. Thanks Daniel!!


 


Aug 24, 2012

I have started a forum dedicated strictly to the Technical Aspects of the Honda RC30. As with all forums they take time to get going but don't be shy, register and ask question or dole out the advice. You will need to register but hey, it's free, and simple enough to be useful. No ugly black background to make you go blind either! Ha ha.

You get to the forum by using the sidebar to the left or by clicking here. Please read the Announcements and FAQ when you get there.



Aug 12, 2012

Nice day here today so I took the RC30 for a spin. As usual everything went seemingly well. After it cooled down a bit I went to take the bugs off and notice some oily grit near the drain hole at the bottom front of the lower cowl. Hmm, must have hit a patch of something slimy? I look inside the cowl with my mag light and Ahhhhhhhh!!! The lower cowl has oil all over the bottom. As could be expected some panic sets in.

I remove the lower cowl so fast it would have impressed Guy Coulon.  I start looking for this winter's expensive project and lo and behold the drain plug has a drop of oil on it and no oil above it anywhere. It must be the drain plug.

I have a new bit of advice to pass down. DO NOT assume you have the drain plug tight even if you did tighten it with a wrench and gave it a good tug like I did last time I changed oil. Get the torque wrench out, set it to 27 ft lb and tighten till it clicks.

Was it low on oil? Not at all so I got away with it. Maybe I will safety wire that thing on. a little bit of oil really can make a nice mess. it probably lost 5 or 10 cc. I did not notice any smoke from it dripping on the exhaust because the header pipes are wrapped with ceramic heat tape.



July 25, 2012

With the disappearance of original mirrors from Honda's parts shelves I get the occasional request about what to do in this area. I usually suggest trying to find a set of NS400R mirrors but they are either red or black so that is not a perfect solution. I was poking around on the internet today and came across what might be an even better solution. The Honda NS125R used a very similar mirror and these are now made in fairly accurate reproductions. It appears to have an additional gizmo attached to the mirror post for the NS125 whose mirrors enter the bodywork directly. It may be possible to remove this attachment and re-use your original lower brackets or find some used lower brackets from mangled RC30 mirrors or an NS400R and paint them white (the lower bracket is metal, not plastic).

I saw a place selling reproduction NS400R mirrors and it appears the guy just removes the additional gizmo on the post.

I won't tell you where to buy them just search Google images for "NS125R mirror" and you should find lots of places selling these for about 28GBP. They are made in blue, red, black and white so take your pick. I obviously cannot comment on the quality but they are probably a notch below what Honda would have sold you. Beggars can't be choosers.

You may find this link helpful... http://www.ns400r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3090

There is some additional information in the discussion forum but you have to sign up to get to it...


Hope this helps someone out there. If you try it and it works let me know. I am pretty sure it will. You can buy these mirrors from World's End Motorcycles (Wemoto) at http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/hl-586611/








July 8, 2012

Added a couple pages from an old Moriwaki catalog. You can find it by clicking on the thumbnail below.


 


June 24, 2012

I will probably try Shinko tires on my RC30 when the Dunlops wear out. In the meantime I am giving Shinko a try on my dual sport bike. So far I love these tires! They are Shinko E705's. These tires were only $40 (F) and $45 (R). Price aside they are still performing very well. Got to get some more km's on them yet before I conclude anything. These were very easy tires to spoon on also. Always a benefit to those who do-it-yourself.

UPDATE August 29, 2012 - These tires have performed way better than I could have imagined. They turn in much quicker with more feel than the horrible Bridgestones that came on it. They seem very soft so I don't expect them to last very long.  I would personally have no problems trying the Shinko 006 on my RC30. I would not feel in danger like the scare mongers would have you think.



June 15, 2012

Honda has now discontinued the A and B Gasket kits for the RC30 engine. You can still buy some of the individual gaskets separately but the important ones are discontinued as stand alone items. Head gaskets are GONE. Valve cover gaskets are GONE.

If you can find either of these kits or the components I suggest you pick them up. Aftermarket gasket sets are never as good as OEM. Centauro, NP and Athena all made RC30 gasket sets. Not sure if they still do (click on them to do your own looking). Buy NP if you can, they are made in Japan. The other two are questionable Italian makes. I have used Athena kits on other bikes but their head gaskets I always chucked in the garbage and went with OEM. You will not have that luxury with the RC30.



June 11, 2012

The SuperclassiX German TT was run over the weekend (June 8th and 9th). The RC30's did really good. Daniel really wanted fourth but was having clutch problems so had some bad starts. Here is how they did.

Race 1:

1     Mikal Henriksen DEN RC30
2     Heinz Cordes GER RC30
3     Wolfgang Harbusch GER RC30
4     Frank Kiefer GER ZXR750
5     Daniel Groth SUI RC30
6     Otto Blaser SUI YZF750R




 Race 2:

1     Mikal Henriksen DEN RC30
2     Heinz Cordes GER RC30
3     Wolfgang Harbusch GER RC30
4     Frank Kiefer GER ZXR750
5     Daniel Groth SUI RC30
6     Otto Blaser SUI YZF750R
7     Michael Sohns GER YZF750

Heinz, Wolfgang and Daniel also raced at Bremerhaven. A real (scary) street race but had to start alongside bikes up to 1200cc so were at a definite disadvantage on the short circuit. You can find the results on pages 31 and 33 here. For a couple (very) short videos go to youtube:

Practice

Race

 


June 9, 2012

For the most part I am all for safety with motorcycles. You know, riding within your limits, wearing proper gear, not drinking and riding, leaving headlights on and those kind of things. Canadian and US spec RC30's have what are known as daytime running lights. This means that as soon as the key is in the "On" position the park light, license plate light, headlights and gauge lights come on and stay on. You can only select high or low beam and cannot turn anything off. The control power for Canadian and US bikes is routed through a set of auxiliary contacts in the starter switch on the right handlebar. The starter switch (and wiring harness) is unique to the US and Canadian bikes. This normally closed set of contacts is broken when you press "start" so the subject lighting will not suck power when you start the bike. As soon as the start button is released the lights all come back on.

I wanted to be able to shut the headlights off and still be able to have the bike running or at least have the key on. It would come in handy when working on the bike or diagnosing a problem if nothing else. The solution is to install a European (or any country but Canada or USA) headlight switch on the left handlebar. This type allows you to have the headlights off and the park light/gauge lights/license light  on or have them all off. It also has a trigger type momentary switch that when pulled puts the high beams on whether the headlight switch is on or not. The horn and turn signal switches are identical. There are absolutely no wiring alterations required to install one of these switches on a Canadian or US bike. All you need to do is swap the left switchgear. The only functional difference after it is installed is that the power to the headlights/park light/gauges will go off when you hit the start button. To be honest it is probably the way the Euro bikes should have been wired. It gives you the best of both worlds.

I installed one of these switches on my project RC30 today (to replace the daytime running switchgear) and it functions as stated above. I went through the wiring diagrams first then did a functional test on each switchgear and checked wiring pin locations with a meter before I installed it. I do not like to just plug things in and see what happens. I also did not want to take the bike half apart to swap it if it would not work. I knew before I started taking bodywork off.

This is a new Canadian / USA spec daytime running light switch. The part number is 35200-MR7-720 but it is now discontinued (I think I have three maybe that is why!). I removed this from project RC30 today with 204.7 km on it. It is much simpler looking than the Euro version. I actually prefer the rocker type hi/lo beam switch on this switch but that is the only thing I like about it. The switch below is literally a direct swap. Just plug it in and everything works.


Here is the used Euro (this is actually from a Jap bike but is the same part number) headlight switch installed and tested on project RC30. It is part number 35200-MR7-000. This part is still available through a non-North American Honda dealer if you want to try one. You can see the hi/lo beam switch is now a push button. The slide switch has OFF that turns all lighting off, "P" which turns on the gauge lights, park light and license plate illumination and "H" which adds the headlights to the "P" position. The trigger type hi beam passing switch works regardless of the position of the slide switch.

This switch is in nice shape but it is not perfect and really does not fit the standard of the bike. I might swap it for the new one I have.

Note the toggle switch I installed in the lower right hand corner of the picture. This switch is wired in parallel with the thermoswitch in the rad so I can turn the radiator fans on manually. Honda decided a 96 C switch is OK for the RC30 but it could easily be a bit lower. 92C to 93C would be about right and buy you some time.



June 7, 2012

After getting a couple hundred kms on my project RC30 it was time to change the oil and filter. As always when I build an engine I disassemble the first oil filter to see if any horror stories are in there. Glad to say I couldn't find anything macroscopic at all. I also wanted to get the oil changed before the clutch cooked. A lot of molybdenum disulphide is used during assembly and clutch plates do not fare well when coated with moly. I haven't had the engine past 8000 RPM and that is one reason why.

I cut apart a Fram filter for an RC30 once and they are of poor quality. Every single part is of lesser quality. I hate to sound like a salesman but I recommend genuine Honda filters that are built to a specification not aftermarket stuff built to a price.




May 31, 2012

A parts book for the 1988 to 1990 Honda RC30 has been added. You can find it using the menu on the left under "Parts Book" or by clicking here.

 



May 29, 2012

If you ever wondered what holds those cast iron liners to the aluminum crankcase casting, or wondered how thick the liners were ...
 

 



May 27, 2012

Instructions on how to make RC30 gauge harnesses (both tachometer and speedometer) has been added to the site.

You can find the information in Article No. 7 on the Articles Page.



May 26, 2012

Brochures Section added.



May 24, 2012

I just got an issue of V Force Magazine and I got excited when I saw that RS Bike Paint Ltd. will sell us lowly do-it-yourself types all the paint colors for an RC30. I am going to give them a try on the lower cowl (see below May 12th, 2012). Why farm out your painting when you can do a better job yourself much cheaper? There is always the satisfaction that you did it yourself. It isn't that hard, try it!


Click on the logo to go buy your paint.
If you live in Canada select the US as your location.



May 12, 2012

I bought this lower cowl a long time ago for really cheap for obvious reasons. Since my RC30 project is complete and these parts are always handy I might have time to restore it and show how to do it. This one has gone down pretty hard on the right side. So hard you could read "HONDA" in the fiberglass where the clutch cover pushed on it. Since this cowl needs some obvious FRP work I may also modify the front of it. As a Japanese spec cowl it does not have the depression in the front to clear the front fender. Guys who work on this stuff want you to think it is difficult or they know some kind of black art. To be honest it is pretty easy if you use the right methods and tools. The only bad thing about fixing this stuff is the mess and toxicity of the whole process. Of course I will paint it also. This lower cowl has a good grille in it, the only thing I would not want to fabricate. I have already made the foam pieces for the inside from 3/8" flameproof closed cell neoprene.

Honda RC30 Lower Cowl



May 7, 2012

Dunlop has decided to introduce a new Roadsmart II tire which resulted in the correct 170 section width 18 inch tire being replaced by a 160 section. A section width of 160 is getting narrow for a 5.5 inch wide rim but my own 170/60 Roadsmart measures out at 176 to 177mm wide on the rim with Honda's recommended pressure. Maybe a 160 would not be bad.

For the adventurous Shinko still make their 170/60-18 in the Podium 006 line. Ron Ayers will sell you a rear one cheap for $94. The matching front from them is $64.

 


May 7, 2012

This would be fun. A 1993 Moriwaki Zero VX7. Probably fairly low miles since it was 18 laps down on Scott Russell and Aaron Slight at Suzuka. They only want about $31,000 for it. It is in Japan collecting dust. Finding parts is a bitch, you better know how to make stuff. Might be an idea to check for an engine first too.

Moriwaki Zero VX7

 


May 1, 2012

Whoops. The Superclassix TTF1 races are back on. With the ZXR moving up to the open class the RC30 will have a bit easier time. Jan's NLOB is up and running and Heinz has some extra power now that he is running FCR39's. The DUcati 851 had some, uh, technical problems.

Lausitz - Race 1 - TTF1 Superclassix
1 - Mikal Henriksen (RC30 NL0B)
2 - Heinz Cordes (RC30)
3 - Wolfgang Harbusch (RC30
4 - Daniel Groth (RC30)
5 - Otto Blaser (YZF750R)
6 - Olav Bock (GSXR750)

Lausitz - Race 2 - TTF1 Superclassix
1 - Heinz Cordes (RC30)
2 - Mikal Henriksen (RC30 NL0B)
3 - Wolfgang Harbusch (RC30
4 - Daniel Groth (RC30)
5 - Otto Blaser (YZF750R)
6 - Olav Bock (GSXR750)

The next race is German TT on June 8th to 10th. Be there and watch the big bangs make beautiful music. Maybe you'll get to see Pirker Blechmusi do some Kiss or some AC/DC!

Thank you Daniel for getting me the information. Good luck.


 



April 30, 2012

My project RC30 has been started (on April 27th). Runs perfect. Look for some pictures of it on the site soon. It really turned out nice. Better than what Honda put together. After all these years it was so cool to hear it running. 725 engine parts working in perfect harmony.




November 3, 2011

A guy emailed me some pictures of a magnesium front wheel he has for sale. He claims it was rebuilt by an expert.  There must be a different definition of expert in Euroland. Who the hell paints the brake disk mounting surface?? I don't make this stuff up, look at the picture immediately below. Holy moly that paint looks thick, it filled up the threads for the bolts as well. Keep trying! Anything with paint this thick is suspect, magnesium wheels more so but I don't want to speculate what is underneath.

Now below is a wheel prepped by a real expert, that being yours truly ; ). Note how the flat and peripheral mounting surfaces were taped off as well as the bearing surface. It really isn't that difficult. The threads are perfectly clean also. Very important for getting even torque on the little bolts that will hold the disks on.





October 28, 2011

It has been kind of slow RC30-wise around here lately so I thought I would put up images of parts I restored in anticipation of project completion this winter. I used the word completion 3 years ago though too. Better to do it once than do it twice I say.
 



October 12, 2011

I didn't think it was possible but there is another Canadian RC30 nicer than mine. This is the last RC30 that was made for Canada and isn't even due for it's first oil change yet if you only look at the odometer. Though this beautiful machine is not for sale this is the kind you want to find if you are in a buying mood; used but still negligible mileage. Better than a zero miles.


 



October 7, 2011


Cancer claims another at an age that isn't fair. Regretfully I announce the passing of Jim Lindemann. Many will know Jim Lindemann from tuning and rebuilding RC30 suspensions over the years. My condolences go out to Jim's family and friends.



September 29, 2011


RC30 WATER PUMP REBUILDING

UPDATE Oct 10, 2011 - Offer of Services Retracted


I have been waiting for some time to try the water pump I rebuilt. Today I installed it and can report that it worked perfectly. I am going to offer water pump rebuilding if there is any kind of a need for it out there. The water pumps are discontinued by Honda and are unique to the RC30. A VFR-F pump will not work. The RC30 water pump part number is 19200-MR7-000 if you want to ask your Honda parts dealer.

The rebuilt water pump is essentially a new pump and includes new:
  • OEM integral shaft bearing unit
  • OEM carbon/ceramic mechanical seal
  • OEM oil seal
I haven't decided on a price for this but the parts are unbelieveably expensive to source at near zero quantities and the time I spent chasing them is ridiculous. There are also about 10 custom made jigs and dies used to disassemble and then assemble the pump professionally. I will need your old RC30 water pump to rebuild. The pump housing casting and the impeller are re-used. Sometimes the impellers are corroded (on the back side) and cannot be re-used. If this is the case your pump is non-rebuildable. If your pump is not yet leaking I would recommend you keep using it.

If you think you can do this yourself then I welcome you to try, but please do not call me and ask where I procured the bearings or seals, or if you can borrow the tooling ! These pumps are easy to damage if you don't use the correct tooling and equipment. I did it as a personal challenge, not to make money, but that doesn't mean I can give up my secrets. If you know someone already doing this please let me know, I don't want to take someone's bread and butter away.

All you have to do is mail me the pump. If the impeller is scrap I'll ask you what you want me to do with it. I can rebuild it at your risk, or return the parts in box if you pay the postage, or send it to water pump heaven.

If you are interested use the Contact Page. I have a limited amount of parts to do this with so it won't last forever. Nothing does.



UPDATED September 30, 2011

September 26, 2011 


UPDATE 11/09/30 - Daniel emailed some information on what happened in the final two races of the TT-F1 race. Many thanks Daniel for letting us know what happened.

  • Heinz Cordes had engine problems in the warmup ending his chances. He was fast in qualifying.
  • Daniel says his bike is faster than him so over the winter he will work on the gap between his capabilities and his RC30s capabilities. Daniel says his RC30 is 8 seconds a lap faster than him at Oschersleben. I have the same problem just to a greater extent.
  • Mikal's NL0B engine was not used in these final two races. Jami racing used a spare motor with just some kit parts in it. He did good in the first race (shortened race after the medical vehicle blew up on the track spreading oil on the 270 deg curve). In the second race Mika had his face shield come off so he had to stop. No time to make up for that with such short races.
Here are the final points standings for the 2011 season. I have decided all on my own to start a manufacturer's championship for the TT-F1 series. Though this is not official it is obvious Honda takes the 2011 championship due to the sheer quantity of RC30s taking part.

Right click and "view image" to make it readable. RC30's are in yellow.





The final SuperclassiX TT-F1 races were run over the weekend. I'd like to say the RC30s dominated but the Ducati 888 Corsa of Ralf Wobker took the win in both races so he clinched the 2011 TT-F1 championship. RC30s did nonetheless come out in force with 7 machines signed up. I would like to have seen a better placing by Mikal Henriksen (JAMI Racing) but it appears he had some problems, finishing 4th in the first race and a non-starter for the second race. Franz Tröster did get on the podium with his RC30 in race 2.

Congratulations to Ralf Wobker, his team and everyone else who keeps these old superbikes at the intended lean angles. I will post the championship results here when they are published. As far as I know the TT-F1 series will be run again, so until then.... I leave you walking on sunshine.


 



September 20, 2011

CMS has a starter clutch in their stock. It is pretty steep at 216.50 Euro (CAN $294.30) but it beats pushing your RC30 down the street or parking on a hill. You can support the owner of CMS and his kids' college fund here. I think I have a new one tucked away so I won't hoard this one on you guys. You don't get the drive gear with it, but you do get the all important sprag unit. If you don't buy the CMS one you can support my kids' college funds in 10 years when I sell mine!

Also... David Silver has one of the discontinued throttle cables in stock, part number 17920-MR7-000
. Unfortunately they only have the "B" cable. Beats fitting a poor quality aftermarket cable. I've never had good luck with aftermarket cables but that's me I suppose. You can buy the "B" cable here. Sometimes links to David Silver go sour so you may have to search by part number. Someone must have agreed with me, the throttle cable is gone.



September 11, 2011

The All-White RC30

 Now and again you will see something on the internet regarding the all-white RC30’s. I have received a couple of queries regarding these peculiar machines. These are RC30s that do not have the normal tri-color paint job (more accurately quad color as there are two blues). I have seen a few for sale over the years but without actually having seen them in person I couldn’t  say for sure if any of them are real albino bikes. My knowledge of these bikes is admittedly  fairly limited, however I can say a few things with confidence about these machines.

-         The all white RC30’s are real. They did exist as a Japanese spec only edition.

-         There are part numbers for the all white bodywork. The parts are the same part number as a regular RC30 except for the suffix which is ZB, not ZA (or ZC for some of the later parts).

-         All of the bodywork is discontinued.

-         The color is NH-196. The color label is located on the rear fender under the seat cowl. A normal RC30 has a color label stating of NH-193P-A.

-         The body work was cheaper because it didn’t take as much material or labour to paint.

-         The paint is Ross White like the wheels.

-         Other than the paintwork and decals they are the same as a standard Japanese spec RC30. There is no truth to the rumours that they were at a higher state of tune or had any HRC parts on them.

If anyone has more information or history about these peculiarities I would be pleased to pass it on here.

As a side note there are no factory RC30’s with Rothmans livery paint jobs. If an importer (or anyone else for that matter) repaints a brand new RC30’s as a dedication to Rothmans that doesn’t make it an official Honda paint job. It is just a repainted RC30 in my eyes. If you can’t buy parts or decals from Honda for it then it isn’t a real Honda paint job. End of story. If you want to see one of these "official" Rothmans bikes this link should work for a few months. Enjoy.



September 7, 2011

The final TT-F1 SuperclassiX race is the weekend of September 24th/25th at Oschersleben. The list of starters is here. I am rooting for Heinz Cordes to be the 2011 TT-F1 Master, however it may take some infamous Ducati reliability to make it happen. Some extra horsepower for Heinz and less weight is going to make it interesting. Seeing Mikal Henriksen back out on Jan's NL0B machine would be worth the trip in itself.

TT-F1 Info for Biketoberfest
First Qualifying:     10:00 am Saturday
Second Qualifying: 12:07 pm Saturday
Third Qualifying:      2:02 pm Saturday 
First Race:             6:00 pm Saturday
Warmup:               10:10 am Sunday
Second Race:        2:15 pm Sunday

 



August 22, 2011

I couldn't keep these pictures to myself. A few of Jan's NL0B powered machine again. I like this bike in case you didn't figure that out already. Here it is being prepared for the final race in September. I should really move these pictures to the race bikes picture page. Probably will in the future. Nice '30 on the stand in the background.





And the guys who make it happen. I think this picture is from the 2010 season.


 



July 24, 2011

Sorry for dragging my heels on this but pressing matters have taken priority over the website. The Art Motor TT-F1 SuperclassiX races were run at the Most circuit on July 17th. The RC30's did pretty good.

For the Race 1 the follow guys were on RC30s.
  • Heinz Cordes#139 (3rd)
  • Martin Huber #165 (4th)
  • Wolfgang Harbusch #177 (6th)
  • Daniel Groth #112 (7th)

For the Race 2 the follow guys were on RC30s.
  • Martin Huber #165 (3rd)
  • Heinz Cordes#139 (4th)
  • Wolfgang Harbusch #177 (5th)
  • Daniel Groth #112 (7th)
I wait in anticipation of the the ZXR's being put in their place in September at Oschersleben. It should be noted that Heinz Cordes (Wellbrock & Co.) is closing in on first place overall in the Superclassix TT-F1 class. Heinz has 93 points compared to the 100 that Ralph Wobker has on his 888 Corsa who did not race at Most.  Good finishes at the last two races could do it! It is also good to see Wolfgang Harbusch back on the 30 after some physical challenges.

Full Results
Race 1
Race 2

Below are some images of the ex-Fogarty NL0B machine that unfortunately did not make the Most race. These guys need some parts to make the final race in September a success. If you can help out at all (see July 19th below) I am sure they would be very appreciative in getting the spare NL0B in operable condition.

Thanks to Jan for the images who was persistent in getting them to me.








Very cool side-mount radiators to reject the calories produced by the NL0B.



July 19, 2011

Some good guys in Europe are currently looking for the following parts to ensure they can keep their race bike where it belongs, on the racetrack.
  1. A set of NL0B valve covers.
  2. Pistons in 70mm/standard bore (Don't have to be Honda but high compression is obviously preferred).
  3. Connecting Rods (Honda or others like Carillo etc).

If you have, or know where to find the above please contact me through the contact page and I will direct you to the man looking for these components and you can work out the details.


Thanks!




July 8, 2011

I finally mounted and balanced the Roadsmart tires. The installed width of the 170/60-ZR18 rear is 176 mm on the stock 5.5" RC30 rim which is 9mm wider than the Dunlop specified 167mm on a 4.5" wide rim. That sounds about right considering the width difference. I talked to Dunlop and they said a 5.5" wide rim is OK for the 170 width. That's good enough for me. Clearance to the chain and swingarm should be OK but I am not so sure about the rear fender. It will be a while before I can try them out. I am really more anxious about trying out the vintage Moriwaki cast iron brake rotors. They are works of art and resemble the stock ones except the carriers are machined, buttons are removable and of course are heat treated cast iron with 5 slots versus Honda's 4 slots. The are also thinner than the stock rotors for better handling.

For the articulate types... I know the yellow tire spot does not match up with the valve stem. I put it at the true heavy spot on the rim, not just the assumed heavy spot like Dunlop says to. The front required 91 grains of balance weight and the rear needed 399 grains. 15.4 grains = 1 gram. The tires were really good, it was the rims that needed the compensatory weight for 1st order balancing. I hate mounting tires but don't trust anyone to do it to properly around these parts. I also use SKF's "Explorer" bearings.

Check out that pearl white finish to match the bodywork. Hard to tell in the picture.




June 24, 2011

Do you wear purple suede shoes? If you do then this pink base jellybean painted RC30 is all for you . Complete with matching jellybean helmet. Reagan would have approved.


Fugly



June 22, 2011

There is still time to make arrangements to go to the upcoming TT SuperclassiX race as either a spectator or a competitor. It looks like it will be July 15th to July 17th in the beautiful Czech Republic at the Most circuit.

 



June 8, 2011

A couple things to mention...

1. The German SuperclassiX race was run this past weekend. The competing RC30s had one of those "oh well, thats racing" weekends. The Dutch team running the ex-Fogarty bike didn't make the show, they are looking for some NL0B parts to piece back one of the engines. When they get me some detailed information on what they are after I will post it on here in the hope that maybe someone out there can help them out with parts or contacts. As for the other RC30s Daniel did good in race 1 but had a moment of exuberance in race 2 and lost the rear. Daniel and his bike are thankfully both OK. One of the two Wellbrock backed bikes didn't make the race. Wolfgang was not up for it physically. Everyone hopes he is better for the next race. Heinz  did make the race with his Wellbrock #139 and took home a 5th and 4th place (Heinz's bike is incorrectly listed as a CBR1000 in the results). With more ZXR-R's showing up the racing has become very competitive. The ZXR always could be encouraged to make good power and with the relatively short races the RC30 doesn't get to show off its durability.

Thanks to Daniel for the race info.

Here are the results from the weekend at
Schleizer Dreieck
:

2. Shockseals has those Fox Twin clicker rebuild kits on their website now for purchase. They are $15 a kit with a discount for 2 or more kits. Nice quality rebuild kits and you don't have to deal with Fox. Shockseals part number is
AHD-F20-625MC. The original Fox rebuild kit is part number 803-00-014-B.


Lastly here is a picture from this past weekend at the German TT courtesy of Daniel. Doesn't this look like fun? Hard to beat RC30s, racing, and lawn chairs.

 

German TT




May 29, 2011

I published some information on RC30 numbers. In particular the numbers relate to RC30 frame numbers, engine numbers, carburetor codes and the all important production numbers. I wanted to put this on the website a long time ago but couldn't find the time to piece it all together. I hope it comes in useful for someone. You can get there via the sidebar by clicking on Numbers.

And a friendly reminder that the German TT is this coming weekend at the
Schleizer Dreieck circuit. If I was within riding distance I would be there cheering on the RC30s. Too bad the race durations are not a bit longer. 15 minutes + 1 lap is still worth it to watch RC30s going at it. The race track's website is still under construction but you can visit it here. Qualifying starts on Friday.

 




May 27, 2011

Had I known Ed Sorbo (see April 14th News below) was hanging around with Paris Hilton I would have looked elsewhere for a shock rebuild. Ha ha, way to go Mr. Sorbo!





May 23, 2011

I made a tool to hold a shock absorber spring while powder coating it. See the top of the tools page for what it looks like. See below (April 14th News updated) for the finished product.

 





May 16, 2011

The RC30, though past its due date for contemporary racing, can be raced in various classic superbike series. A reader of this website races in the Art Motor TT SuperclassiX series and sent me a link to the promoter's site. With a standard bore engine the RC30 is placed in the appropriately named TT-F1 class.

2011 Race Dates
  1. April 16/17
  2. June 3/4
  3. July 15-17
  4. Sept. 24/25

The 2010 series winner rode a Kawasaki ZXR750R. This year it looks like it might be Ralf Wobker on the Ducati 888 Corsa that will cause most of the angst for the RC30 guys. He won both races in April. The Danish team that runs Carl Fogarty's ex TT bike had the factory motor go bang. Such a shame. Hopefully they can get it back on the track.


2011 Results (I'll post them here as the races are completed)


Bikes up to 1994 are permitted, but the RC45 and 916 are specifically excluded, as are those ridiculous carbon composite wheels.

Permissible bikes (PDF file)

Pictures of the riders and machines from 2009








May 11, 2011

If you have an FOX Twin Clicker shock you can now buy a quality rebuild kit from someone other than FOX. I bought a kit from FOX but they sent it to me by UPS ground. After paying UPS $55 for terrible service they charged me $40 to broker it across the border. The brokerage and shipping were over six times what the seal kit cost. I found a company that sold similar kits for cars.. I worked with them to develop a seal kit based on the FOX seal kit I had in my possession. If you have a 5/8" shaft twin clicker this kit will let you rebuild it yourself.

Here is a link to Shockseals.com. They don't rebuild shocks, they just sell shock kits. Their FOX rebuild kits are reasonably priced with discounts for multiples. As of today I don't see the Fox MC kit listed on the site, but just drop Shockseals.com an email and he will know what you are asking for. I saw a bare-bones kit on eBay for $30 but it only included the dust and pressure seal, that's it. The Shockseals.com kits have the dust and pressure seals, ten o-rings and the two piston rings. You shouldn't need anything else, just some oil and
N2. If the rod is scratched, pitted of otherwise surface damaged you'll need to have it hard chromed and centerless ground,




 




 

 



April 27, 2011

I messed up the race bike image page if you use Internet Explorer. I switched to a different picture host and my flash embedded stuff doesn't work in Internet Explorer (as near as I can tell). It works better in Firefox. but the images are blank in IE. I am not a computer type but I'll get it fixed. I should have listened more intently in class instead of checking out the new girl.

FINALLY FIXED DEC 16, 2012 !!

 

 



April 18, 2011

I noticed Wemoto sell Nitron shock absorbers. If you live in North America you don't have to pay the VAT (I think it is 20%) so these shocks are actually reasonably priced. Without shipping the track shock absorber is only Can $657. They also make a race damper that has high and low speed damping adjustments for about Can $727 which is very reasonable. The Nitron dampers are all built to order and they do list the RC30 specifically. Go for the black spring, that pale blue is a bit pasty.

Wemoto also sell Hagon shock absorbers. I still have sweaty nightmares about Hagon's products.
Rebuilt RC30 Shock



April 14, 2011


STOCK RC30 (SHOWA) SHOCK ABSORBER REBUILD


I went searching for a place to rebuild a stock RC30 shock absorber (I like the term damper). I was going to do it myself, but decided I don't have time to chase down the seals and tools. I asked a few companies here in Canada about it and most said it was not rebuildable (umm.. huh?) and probably wouldn’t be worth it anyway (what the? are you sure you rebuild shocks?). I asked why, in technical terms, they couldn’t rebuild it, since I could do it myself. I never did get a proper answer. I was usually facing a discussion with some kind of “Application Service Specialist”. I've now realized that means they don’t know which way is Up. The stock RC30 rear damper is still better than what many new motorcycles wear. The stock Showa is often all that is necessary for the street or track days. If you don’t want to drop $500+ for a new damper that won’t have much adjustment right on up to $1400+ for something with both high and low speed damping adjustments then rebuilding the Showa is a great option. It is much more important to have your damper dialed in to your riding than who manufactured it. Not even a gold reservoir and yellow spring will help you if you don't spend the time to set it up..

Undeterred by the “experts” manning the phone lines I sent a few desperate emails off with inquiries. One of the places that replied was Lindemann Engineering. Now everyone, and rightly so, will think of Jim Lindemann, but since the new year LE has changed ownership and locations. Ed Sorbo now operates Lindemann Engineering. He said he could rebuild the shock absorber but it might take a while to find seals if they are not in stock.

Before I sent the damper I cleaned it really good and rough refinished the remote reservoir. I also tried to get the cap off the reservoir using a vacuum pump and pulling, but was only just unsuccessful. I boxed up the damper, cap still in place, without the spring or spring collars and off it went via the post office to Lindemann. If you do this send it in a strong box with lots of packing and bubble wrap. Ed will appreciate proper packaging, and so will your damper. You should at minimum insure it for the price of another used damper.

After the damper arrived in sunny California I got a couple of emails from Ed asking my weight and what spring I used. Ed later sent me an email saying he ordered a compression bumper for it to try and match up to the sketch I had sent of a stock Honda bumper. The stock bumper had crumbled away on this particular unit but fortunately I had a NOS damper to measure a sample. Ed trimmed back the new bumper to make it work.

After speaking with Ed I can vouch he is a good guy and very knowledgeable about dampers. He is a still busy setting up his new shop and functionally operating Lindemann and his EDventure Racing enterprise. Somehow he managed to find time to help a lowly RC30 owner. The damper returned to my door in just over 2 weeks. I think that is pretty good considering most of the time is spent on a plane or truck, or just lounging with the friendly folks at customs. It was only in Lindemann’s hands for six days including a weekend. I will mention I told him I was not in a hurry.

The price was US $210, which at first glance may appear costly compared to what some outfits charge, but Lindemann also includes most parts. Most places say about $175, and then proceed to nickel and dime you. The compression bumper was the only item over and above the $210. I didn’t require any valve shim stack changes but I see Lindemann only charges $80 if you need it done. Note that the (ugly lawyer inspired) cap on the reservoir is sacrificed when it comes off. This is of no real consequence and even though Ed returned the chewed up cap I am going to leave it off. It looks more like a real damper reservoir without it and makes the next rebuild that much easier. This damper was in really nice shape except for the fact it had near zero N2 charge remaining. Ed replaced the dust seal, pressure seal, rebound bumper and external compression bumper. Of course it got new fluid and an N2 charge. The obligatory LE racing stickers were included (and thankfully not applied, I am not quite finished refurbishing it).

I recommend Ed Sorbo at Lindemann if you need your RC30 damper freshened up.  LE can supply a spring to suit if you need one. RC30 springs are standard 60mm ID, so the springs are easy to source. I am using the stock spring on this one.

Jim Lindemann may be mostly out of the picture these days but the tradition continues in the company that bears his name.


Above: The stock RC30 shock after refurbishing by Lindemann and me. I replated a lot of the parts, powder coated the spring, cleaned up and clear coated the reservoir and put on a new warning decal and a custom made Showa decal. I also spun on a chrome Honda Shrader valve cap. You can't see it in the picture but I also added a shim/washer between the spring and adjusting rings so the adjusting rings will not chew up my powder coating setting the pre-load.


Click on the logo to visit
Lindemann Engineering



April 9, 2011

I am rebuilding a pro-squat brake linkage for someone. I needed to order the collars that go between the spherical joints and the linkage arms. Of course these were discontinued. I searched and came up with something I thought may work. The RC45 uses a similar looking collar in the same service..

There are a few differences between the RC45 and RC30 collars:

  1. The depth of the RC45 collar is 5 mm, not the 4 mm the RC30 collar comes in at. This will locate the long link arm towards the right by 1 mm and the short link from the caliper bracket to the swingarm to the right 1mm also. A check will also be made to ensure the extra depth of the RC45 collar does not eliminate the cotter pin.
  2. The flange of the RC45 collar is 17 mm in diameter versus 16mm in diameter. There is no consequence to this other than it increases the load bearing area.
  3. The RC45 collar appears to be made by stamping (call it forging if you want). The RC30 collars are machined from solid. Another small example of the quality built into the RC30 versus other bikes. Both collars are zinc plated and converted.
  4. You can buy the RC45 collars. You can’t buy the RC30 collars.

Note also the through bolts (10mm) that hold the linkage together are discontinued but at least Honda superseded the part number. The new bolts are in the cold formed state as opposed to machined like the RC30 originals but they work. They are just rounder on the edges. The new/superseded bolt also has some thread-locker on it and the cotter hole.


RC45 Collar is part number 43433-MW4-000

RC30 Collar is part number 43433-MR7-000 (discontinued)

 


I sketched up the collars so you can see the differences yourself. This drawing is good enough to have some made from. Material selection is by your engineer’s choice. A proper bolting material alloy steel is recommended. I have seen these collars made out of aluminum by someone who may have been dropped as a baby. This is not the time or the place for soft, low strength materials because they are easy to machine.


 

  

 



April 8, 2011

I added some information on de-restricting the Swiss CDI unit. This information was contributed by a website visitor. You can find it here on the CDI page. I also added CDI to the menu. You no longer have to come here to find the CDI page.



March 2, 2011

I added a translator to most all of the pages on the website. Now my friends who don't like English can easily translate each page.

 



February 10, 2011

I added some information on the JDM restricted CDI unit. You can find it here.

 



February 9, 2011

I received some comments and questions regarding what color "HRC Gold" is. I summarize below my feelings on the subject of the mythical HRC Gold color used on the magnesium wheels.


I had a gold color listed (YR502P) on the paint codes web page but recently took it off. The information may have been incorrect as advised by someone reading the web site. On the RC45 forum the site administrator stated that the code is YR502P but apparently this is an automotive code. You can view that posting here.

Here is a PPG sample of YR502P. It looks close, but I think it is just a color someone "matched" by looking through the Honda automotive paint books because nobody has an equivalent for motorcycles.



I mix my own coatings to match/suit so I don't have a code I can personally give you that I have used, but if I was going to give a paint shop or paint supplier a paint code I would go with Honda's Magtec Gold Metallic. It is very close, if not the exact color. Magtek made RS250 wheels so I don't think this is a mere coincidence. The Magtec Gold Metallic color is Honda code YR159M.

This YR159M color code was used on the Honda X8R (scooter) front fork lowers so you can get a look at it on the internet, if not in person.

Proof Color Exists -> http://www.cmsnl.com/products/51500-gcm-891za-fork_51500gcm890za/
Picture of the YR159M Color on the screaming Honda scooter forks below.

I think most guys go with too dark of a color when eyeballing a color like this. The Magtek color looks very pleasing, if not perfectly correct.

For a more detailed close up image of a new fork lower painted with YR159M click here.

Honda Magtec Gold Metallic code YR159M (on fork lowers). Love that phony USD look.

This is what the Roadsmart tires look like for tread pattern 



November 29, 2010

I made an RC30 rear wheel balancing stand using RC30 parts and other things. You can see it at the top of the Tools page.



November 26, 2010

 I Just received a set of Dunlop Roadsmart tires in 170/60ZR18 and 120/70ZR17. They look OK but I'll have to wait for a few months to try them, season is over here unless I punch them full of ice racing studs. Pretty cheap at $150 for the rear and $115 for the front. Unmounted the rear measures about 169mm wide. I'll post on here what the installed width is when I get around to mounting them.

May 4, 2011
It is my understanding the 170/60ZR18 tire is not available in some places in Europe.
The 170/60ZR18 rear tire is available in the US where I purchased mine as well as Japan and Australia.

May 11, 2012
It is my understanding that we are all out of luck. They stopped making the 170/60ZR-18. Darn!


 



November 23, 2010

 I uploaded a spring calculator so you can calculate the spring rate of a coil spring. Very handy if you have a spring but don't know the spring's rate. I used it to calculate the spring rate of the HRC spring I have for sale. It calculated out at 17.5 kg/mm and is specified as 18 kg/mm. At the same time I also calculated the spring rate for a stock RC30 spring that is supposed to be 17 kg/mm but it calculated at 16.7 kg/mm.

The numbers are entered in US Customary Units but it shows metric numbers so you can check your conversions. When you open the file those are just dummy numbers in the cells, they are not for an RC30.

It is here in the Articles page as #6.



November 17, 2010

This may not be news to anyone else but here goes... I noticed today that Shinko makes a 180/55VR18 tire in their 003 lineup. It is 4mm narrower than Dunlop list for the VRod tire in the same 180/55 size when spooned onto a 5.5” rim. This Shinko 003 tire is really cheap so it might be worth a try. They market it as a drag tire primarily. Beggars can't be choosers as they say.

I found a review of the Shinko 003 on a Buell here. You never know who is paying who with tire tests though. Seemed to do OK I guess. If I have to use an 18" rear tire I think I'd stick to a Dunlop Roadsmart, just because it is the correct 170 width. The Roadsmart tire is also a modern dual compound design that you don't have to worry about getting heated up.

In spite of what Dr. Otto says I am a believer in that you usually get what you pay for, but I am also curious by nature; just like a cat without nine lives. I would like to hear back if anyone has tried these on an RC30. Pictures of damaged irreplaceable bodywork not required...

RETAIL SHINKO 003 PRICES (2010)

180/55-18 is $110
120/70-17 is $65


 

A picture of the Shinko 003; an odd looking tire. 



November 3, 2010

Put up an article we did on the RC30 exhaust sound. A fun topic touched on in a light-hearted fashion. Have a read and see what you think. You can find a PDF in the Articles page as #2. If you don't know what the RC30 360 degree big bang firing order is you will after 15 minutes of reading.

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